Estes Park, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains.
Imagine life in the Rocky Mountains around the mid 1800s or even
a little later. It was pretty darn rugged. And when travelers set out–mostly to
do some trapping or to move from one place to the next for other reasons–it
could be very rough going. There were very few established places of lodging
outside of big cities and folks often relied upon the benevolence of strangers
to take them in for a night or two, particularly if they were caught out in the
middle of nowhere in a snowstorm.
This way of life and so much more is richly described in the
highly revered memoir–a travel memoir of sorts–by Englishwoman Isabella Bird.
Anyone contemplating a trip to Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park
should read her book “A Lady’s Life in the Rocky Mountains.” One of the best
scenes in this masterpiece of Western literature recounts her ascent up Longs
Peak with her guide known as Rocky Mountain Jim. Clad in a skirt and weighed
down with a heavy dose of determination, Miss Bird clawed her way up this
renowned mountain with the same grit as witnessed with today’s climbers. Thank
goodness she had a guide.
For anything even remotely off-the-beaten-path or particularly
challenging, guides are essential in these parts even if you’re equipped with
the most high tech equipment and gear. With elevations that can easily obtain
10,000 feet–Longs Peak actually measures over 14,000 feet–and mountain weather
that can change as quickly as a bear’s temperament, it’s best to find yourself
out in this wilderness with an expert. Thankfully there are many places to
turn, including Estes Park Rock Climbing, KIrk’s Mountain Adventures, Kirk’s
Fly Shop, Estes Park Adventures and more. For trail rides (on horses!), check
out National Park Gateway Stables and Elkhorn Stables.
Fortunately life in Estes Park has evolved considerably since the
days of Isabella Bird. In 1867, Griff Evans arrived in the area to do some care
taking for a ranch. He soon saw an opportunity for tourism and began building
cabins for the visitors; his place later became known as the first dude ranch
in the area, since it arranged all kinds of outings for fishing, hunting and
mountain climbing. This tradition of hospitality has grown exponentially since
then and it comes as no surprise that Estes Park boasts one of the best
selections of lodging in all of Colorado’s mountain towns. From cabins to
resorts to motels to inns to lodges to hotels and surely some AirBnBs, there’s
something for everyone and every budget in and around this glorious slice of
the Rocky Mountain West.
Whether you stay there or not, two places of lodging warrant a
visit for their historic and cultural significance. Listed on the National
Register of Historic Places, The Baldpate Inn started out as a homestead with a
few cabins over a hundred years ago. This establishment became an instant
success, so they built an inn on the premises in 1917 from hand-hewn timber cut
from the property. Massive stone fireplaces completed this handsome mountain
rustic interior, a look that still charms visitors today. A stay here offers a
classic mountain getaway experience, one of great historical note as well,
since the inn’s photography collection chronicles notable people that have
stayed at the property as well as places of significance in Colorado. The
Baldpate Inn’s key collection is considered to be the largest in the world. The
origins of it are as fascinating as the pieces within it, an elaborate tale
that you can find out about in depth when you stay at or visit this historic
establishment.
By the early 1900s, travel to Estes Park was greatly facilitated
by the opening of new roads and the creation of auto stage lines that featured
steam busses for passengers known as Stanley Steamers. Wealthy easterners soon
sought out the extraordinary beauty of the Rocky Mountains and the wondrous
health benefits its fresh aired offered. (Many people traveled here, in fact,
with the hope of curing themselves from tuberculosis.) Having seen the need to
build a fine hotel to accommodate these travelers, Mr. Stanley embarked upon
the construction of The Stanley Hotel on a site that furnishes magnificent
views of the Rockies. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this
grand Colonial Revival hotel continues to attract people today and once again,
even if you’re not staying here, a visit to The Stanley is a must. Sip a drink
in their renowned Whiskey Bar or take a guided tour of this storied property
where you can delve into its rich history. Into the paranormal? They’ll explore
that with you as well. The Stanley was after all featured in Stephen King’s
epic thriller, “The Shining.” Remember “all work and no play makes Jack a dull
boy.” Ok, maybe it’s time for another whiskey.
Know that there are many other wonderful places of lodging–and
dining–in and around Estes Park. Long live their long history of hospitality.
Long live magnificent Longs Peak.